In the last update, you got to see our backstage and experienced the art of making great shoes through Oscar’s vision. You also had a peek at the cutting and broguing processes on some of the shoes. Now, let me walk you through the finishing process, so you can get familiar with the stitching and lasting of your shoes.
First, let’s talk about the stitching process. Since we want to make sure you receive a strong, good-looking shoe, we follow a sewing method with a high number of stitches per inch (SPI). In our case, we have an impressive stitch density of 11 SPI. This takes more time and effort, but increases reliability and looks beautiful.
Once the uppers have been stitched and the eyelets punched, it is finally time to give your shoe the desired shape. For this step, we use foot-shaped molds called lasts. This process allows the materials to stretch and makes your shoes supple and pliable.
Different than other brands, who last their shoes for only about 2 hours, we let the shoes rest on these molds for about 72 hours, which results in a high-quality, sturdy shoe.
Lasting of the shoes
When the lasting is finished, we’re ready to stitch the soles of your shoes and nail the heels on. The stitching of the soles is made with a machine called the McKay, named after the American Colonel Gordon Mckay (1821-1903).
Colonel McKay introduced this technology during the Civil War in the United States, when many of the shoemakers were sent to war, and shoes became scarce and expensive.
With the war in full steam, soldiers often used pegged shoes that were not suitable for the winter time. Many of them walked barefoot or with bandages around the feet due to the lack of footwear.
McKay, who had bought the patent of the machine from Lyman Reed Blake (hence the name Blake stitched construction), improved the functions on the machine and made a large profit from it during the war.
This revolutionary idea is what we still use nowadays to stitch the soles on shoes. In fact, the artisans in our workshop have adapted the name of the McKay machine to Spanish, so when they are “maquiando”, it means they are stitching the soles.
McKay machine for stitching soles
After the soles have been stitched and heels have been nailed, your shoes will go through some finishing details before we send them to you!
All production is on time and we're expecting to ship during the first half of July.
If you need to update any contact information before we ship, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below, send an email to email@example.com, or use the chat on our website.
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